It’s a magical time of 12 months for the culinarily-minded in New England. The bridge between the most popular days of summer time being edged out by the cooler nights of early fall means that virtually each sort of produce is accessible in abundance. A go to to a farmstand is someplace between entralling and overwhelming — a lot produce to eat and so little time to eat it!
This 12 months’s Shoulder Season holds a bit extra which means than normal. I’ve simply determined to depart my job and go to culinary faculty. It has been on my thoughts since I began school a decade in the past, and Hubtastic and I concluded that the timing now could be good. I begin again at BU in January (I say “back” as a result of it’s also my undergraduate alma mater) for an intensive program, after which… I don’t know what after. For now, the prospect of culinary faculty on the horizon has re-enlivened my ardour for creativity within the kitchen after just a few months of simply making the identical few dishes (I’m taking a look at you, tacos) time and again.
So there I used to be final week, staring on the attractive tomatoes, corn, and basil, attempting to conjure up a brand new strategy to serve them. Typically, I go away every part uncooked and toss with a French dressing for a refreshing and filling summer time salad, however I knew that’d go away Hubtastic in search of the remainder of his dinner. I’ve posted earlier than about how soothing I discover pasta-making to be, so I improvised: we’d have papardelle with brown-butter sauce, broiled cherry tomatoes, and corn. Inspired by my success with ravioli, I figured some basil (which I’ve rising on a windowsill and nonetheless haven’t killed!) and pine nuts would add freshness and crunch, respectively.
But that wasn’t inventive sufficient to fulfill my newfound zeal. Why not put the brown butter within the pasta? A fast Google search revealed that I, evidently, was the primary particular person to ever think about this. “Brown butter pasta dough” led me, on the primary web page of outcomes, to recipes from many illustrious names together with Alton Brown, New York Times, Saveur, Half Baked Harvest, and King Arthur Flour, however the brown butter at all times took the type of a sauce, which is outdated information.
I needed to create, apparently. I did some research on the trusty Serious Eats web site after which threw out all the rules they so painstakingly offered (which, to be truthful, one of many tips was to interrupt the principles and do what you need). My plain pasta dough recipe has 350g of flour (Doppio Zero is finest however regular AP flour works in a pinch), Three eggs, 1 yolk, and about 2-Three tablespoons/small splashes of water.
For this concept to work, I’d should threat eradicating the additional yolk (largely fats and water), and changing it with four tablespoons of butter (additionally largely fats and water), which had been melted and evenly browned on the range. I’ve made sufficient dough to know what texture I’m in search of after mixing and kneading, so if I obtained one thing completely bizarre, I figured I may toss the dough and return to sq. one if wanted. Fortunately, after an additional tablespoon of water and about 10 additional minutes of kneading (in a stand mixer), the dough got here collectively fantastically and the kitchen, my arms, and the Kitchenaid all smelled like brown butter.
After the dough and I obtained an hour’s relaxation, I rolled and hand-cut into large ribbons. From right here, every part was smooth-sailing. The tomatoes had been tossed in oil, salt, and pepper, and aggressively broiled till virtually blackened. The corn was severed from the cob and evenly toasted in a bit extra butter together with a thinly-sliced garlic clove, pine nuts, and a sprinkle of salt. While the pasta boiled in salty water for about 2 minutes, I tossed the tomatoes in with the corn, examined for seasoning, and readied basil leaves and parmesan in addition to serving dishes and consuming utensils.
I drained the pasta, nonetheless barely under-done, utilizing tongs and added it on to the pan with the greens to toss and end cooking. At this level, the entire home smelled like brown butter, and pausing to take just a few pictures was excruciating. You’re welcome.
Sometimes, taking a threat pays off. This pasta-dough leap-of-faith certainly did — hopefully culinary faculty will too!